REPEAT WARNING: Once again, this is not a sailing related entry. This, as well as future entires through April/May 2025, reflect our effort to capture our experiences while we explore Australia, New Zealand and other places (now Southeast Asia) across the world from the country we call home by land with some air travel assists. We are metaphorically putting our memories in a bottle to savor on some future date. If you are not interested in reading an amateur attempt to document travel experiences you may wish to skip these entries. No offense will be taken. You were warned!
After a whirlwind tour of Thailand, on December 18, 2024 we settled into a condo in the Nimman neighborhood in Chiang Mai, Thailand that we rented for 5 weeks. (Nimman, replete with local cafes and shops, is a favorite home away from home among the digital nomad set. We figured that if it was good enough for digital nomad expats, it was good enough for us!) We didn’t fully appreciate how nice it would be to simply stay put and enjoy the little pleasures of daily living (like having your local barista start to fill your coffee order with a smile when you walk into the coffee shop) until we stopped moving. It reminded us of a lovely French word, quotidian, which means belonging to each day or ordinary. Sometimes it is the small things you do as part of your daily routine that bring you the most joy. Chiang Mai was filled with so many of those little moments that, collectively, our stay here brought on this feeling of blithe contentment.
That is not to say that we weren’t busy. We made the most of our Chiang Mai residency by exploring almost every corner of the city — mostly on foot with days where we walked between 5 – 10 miles and sometimes more. We visited the Old City with its famous Buddhist temples (including Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Pra Sing and Wat Phantao). Being a short 1.5 miles from our condo (3 miles round trip), strolling to the Old City and meandering around its shops and cafes became one of our favorite “what should we do today” activities when we had nothing else planned. We also made sure to visit every major day and night market including one that only happens once a year. This includes (in no particular order): (1) the Wua Lai Road Walking Street Night Market (known as the Saturday Night Market), (2) the Night Market in the Old City (known as the Tha Pae Sunday Walking Street Market — our favorite and it goes and goes), (3) the Warorort day and night market (located in Chiang Mai’s Chinatown and where you definitely got the best deals!), (4) the every day Night Bizarre located in a beautiful area between the city moat and the Ping River, very near the delightful Wat Ket Riverside neighborhood, (5) the weekend only Jing Jai market (which took top honors for the quality of the clothing, crafts, jewelry and artwork sold — Jill acquired a bespoke embroidered jean jacket there that is so rich in fine stitching detail that it could be hung as a tapestry), (6) the Saturday and Sunday daytime Art Village market (a market run by local artists built around their studios), (7) the Coconut market located, you guessed it, in a coconut plantation and, last but not least, (8) the Annual Umbrella Festival (which was really a special weekend market) in the Bo Sang Village famous for the traditional hand painted umbrellas created by locals using the techniques passed down through many generations. (We included a few pics from this festival in our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.)
In addition to becoming Night and Day Market regulars, we went on some great excursions, sometimes with just the 2 of us and sometimes with a local guide, Obe, of Triple X Adventures. How we met Obe — best guide ever — deserves a brief mention. As anyone who reads our blog regularly knows (or anyone who knows Jill at all is aware), Jill is an avid New York Times reader. As we mentioned in our last entry, Jill had read an article in the NYT about Lampang that resulted in us including Lampang in our itinerary right before we arrived in Chiang Mai. We loved Lampang so much that we decided we wanted to take our son, Stefan, and his wife, Monique, there when they visited us in January but we felt our return visit could benefit from a professional guide. So Jill sent an Instagram message to the writer of the Lampang article to see if he knew anyone. He not only responded to Jill’s message (much to Zack’s surprise) but he pointed us to Obe and also made some suggestions of things we should not miss in Chiang Mai (that included the Jing Jai market referenced above). At any rate, Obe grew up in Lampang so he knows the community and history really well — the perfect person to accompany us on our return visit. Even more fortuitously, Obe currently lives in Chiang Mai and recently started a tour company focused on health and wellness adventures. So we hired Obe to explore some areas and sights in and around Chiang Mai and Lampang and he gave us several wonderful recommendations for hikes and activities we could do on our own. We will categorize these as the with and without Obe experiences and will share them starting with the “With Obe” grouping.
Obe lead us on many fantastic adventures. The first one was a twilight visit to Wat Pha Lot which is a temple built into the hillside of the Suthep mountain on the way to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a temple on the top of the mountain. Wat Pha Lot is unique in that the temple is situated deep in the jungle next to a water fall, giving it this incredible serene feel. In fact, it is known by locals as the”hidden gem” jungle temple. There is a a lovely 2 km trail that takes you from the city through the jungle to the temple. We didn’t walk the trail during our first visit with Obe — we did that later (more on that below) — because our plan was to proceed by car to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep following our visit to Wat Pha Lot to enjoy Wat Phra That Doi Suthep at night. Being situated 5,500 feet above the city and with many beautiful structures illuminated in the evening we had heard that a night visit to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was a must. Between the immersion in natural beauty that is part of the Wat Pha Lot experience and seeing the golden Wat Phra That Doi Suthep pagoda lit up at night while looking out over the twinkling lights of Chiang Mai, the twilight turned to evening visit to these temples was truly enchanting. Ironically, we had actually visited Wat Phra That Doi Suthep when we first arrived in Chiang Mai at the tail end of our private tour but our experience with Obe felt new. In fairness to our first guide, we were getting tired after the perpetual motion of 2-3 days stints in many different locations and, at the time, after visiting dozens of temples across Thailand, it felt like “one more temple.” (We mentioned that in our last blog entry and ask for your forgiveness!). That said, Obe shared much more detail about why this temple is so sacred to Buddhists, making our second visit much more meaningful. (In short, according to legend, an elephant carried a relic of the Buddha up the mountain, circled a spot on top of the mountain three times, and then died, signifying that it was an auspicious spot for the temple.) The night time majesty of the visit with Obe helped as well. We should also mention that with our first guide we rode a cablecar up to the top. We didn’t know there was any other way up to the top. Of course, Obe would have none of that and we climbed the 306 steps to the top without stopping to rest! Obe is a tough taskmaster! We enjoyed this visit so much that we did a repeat with Stefan and Monique except this time we hiked the monk’s trail, meeting Obe at Wat Pha Lot and then traveling by car up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep parking area and then making them walk the 306 steps to the top! (We included a few pics of this visit on our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post and we used one as our feature photo for this blog post.)
Consistent with Obe’s focus on health and wellness, he also took us to Tham Chiang Dao (also known as Wat Tham Chiang Dao), a large cave about 90 minutes outside of Chiang Mai. The cave is located on top of a mountain so you have to climb about 1200 moderately steep steps to reach the cave’s entrance. (We all had a good work out!). The effort is worth it. The cave was comprised of large and small chambers filled with some huge stalactites and stalagmites. Several were named after the animals they resemble. The cave also includes a “Reclining Buddha Chamber” where (you guessed it again) a very large reclining Buddha has made itself at home. Most of the cave was well lit but portions were not necessitating the headlamps we were handed before entering the cave. (We included a mcave pics on our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.) Following our cave visit, we drove to the nearby Mae Kampong Village, a small village of just over 130 houses which has become a model for community tourism in Thailand. In Mae Kampong, its own inhabitants are in charge of managing the tourism offered, and they directly pocket its benefits. There are no corporately owned chain stores or hotels — there is not even a 7 Eleven which are otherwise ubiquitous in Thailand. It’s just an authentic village with a few local shops and restaurants built into the side of a hill next to lush forest and a waterfall. We finished our day with a visit to Wat Doi Khum. Our walk up to Tham Chiang Dao was not enough for Obe so we needed one more good climb! While the temple may not have been entirely memorable (though it is off the tourist beaten path which made it nice it that respect), the hike up to it is epic. It involves a long climb up uneven and mostly broken concrete stairs. Obe was very impressed that we did the climb in about 14 minutes (again, Obe pushes hard) though he also shared that his fastest time is 8 minutes! Apparently, he takes his weight loss clients (yes, that is part of his business too!) there for a good workout.
Another Obe adventure, this time during Stefan and Monique’s visit, was a visit to Wat den sali Si Mueang Kaen (know as Wat Ban Den for short), Buatong Cave and the famous “Sticky Waterfalls.” Wat Ban Den is known for bright colorful and really (really) large sculptures of the usual temple creatures (peacocks, snakes, roosters, lions, etc.) as well as intricate woodwork within its temples. It’s a huge complex that includes, in addition to temples, monks’ quarters and a meditation hall, 12 magnificent stupas, each one a replica of a stupa from a famous temple representing one of the 12 Chinese zodiac signs. Obe described Wat Ban Den as the Disney Land of temples and we could not have described it better. We had so much fun walking around the temple grounds and shooting picture after picture of the spectacular vibrantly colored and detailed creatures. (We included a few pics of these works of art in our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.) With a full itinerary ahead of us for the day, we are afraid that we overstayed our visit a bit as Obe gently, and then not quite so gently, coaxed us back to his SUV. Following the temple visit, Obe took us for a quick visit to Buatong Cave. Definitely not has breathtaking as Tham Chiang Dao but still fun to see the limestone formations and learn about the cave’s legend. (This cave is believed to be a hideout for an ancient Chiang Mai princess during a time of war.). But the highlight of the day was the visit to the Sticky Waterfalls. The waterfall, with the water cascading over large flat stones that look like giant steps, is visually stunning. What makes the sticky waterfall so special though is that mineral deposits on the stones give the rock — which looks incredibly smooth — the feeling of a cat’s tongue. That means that your feet stick to the rocks as it there were thousands of microscopic suction cups and you can walk barefooted up the falls without slipping. The rocks are quite steep in a few places but in those spots there is a rope that you can use to pull yourself up. It’s like nothing we have ever done before and it was a great way to see gorgeous scenery while getting a full body workout! And when do you get a chance to play Spider-Man? (We posted a pic of Jill scaling the Sticky Waterfall in our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.)
Our final tour with Obe was back to Lampang. As we mentioned, we enjoyed our first visit so much that we made a mental note and decided to return with Stefan and Monique. It was even better the second time around — in part because we had Obe as a guide but also because we stayed at the Memory Cofe and Guest House for 2 nights. The Memory Cafe and Guest house is a no frills locally owned restaurant where, for about $20 USD a night, you get a small room with a double bed and a tiny en suit bathroom. The bathroom was reminiscent of the head on our first boat which had a small sink, a toilet and a shower head but no separate shower — just a shower head on the side of the wall. When you turn on the shower head the bathroom converts to a shower. But it was clean and comfortable and, most importantly, in the heart of Lampang and the Saturday/Sunday Night Market. For our first day, Obe gave us an insiders tour of his home town which included a stroll down streets with their original gingerbread houses from centuries ago, a visit to an original teak lumberyard and a visit to Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, one of the most highly revered temples in Thailand. According to legend, Buddha once visited the site some 2,500 years ago and donated a hair. That hair is now enshrined in a temple on the site that dates back to the 13th century. Not surprisingly, the temple’s name literally translates to “the temple of Lampang’s Great Buddha Relic.” The temple complex contains a large number of buildings in their original state, including the oldest surviving wooden temple in Thailand. We topped the day off with another fabulous dinner at Jay Jay Chan, the vegan restaurant with one table and no menu — you just ask for specific dishes and they bring them. (Well, that was the end of the day for Zack and Jill. Stefan and Monique hit the town with a late night visit to a bar owned by one of Obe’s friends. It sounds like it was an epic evening — though Stefan still managed to meet Obe for a 5k run the next day at 6 AM — but you’ll have to get those details from their blog. Oh, wait, they don’t have one. 😁)
For our second day in the area Obe took us to the Tempe in the Sky. That was another place we had visited as we traveled across Thailand on our way to Chiang Mai but we enjoyed the visit so much that we wanted to share it with Stefan and Monique. Again, having Obe there this time definitely enhanced our experience as he shared more about the legend of the temple and its significance. (We wrote copious amount about our visit to this temple, as well as our time in Lampang generally including our dinner at Jay Jay Chan, in our last blog entry entitled Our visit to Thailand Part I — December 1, 2024 through December 18, 2024 (subtitle: A roving tour of Thailand from Phuket to Chiang Mai or “If its Tuesday it must be Sukhothai.”) so — luckily for you — we won’t repeat all of that information in here.) A really fun part of our visit was our encounter with a snake on the path leading to the steps you must ascend to reach the temple. As we headed towards the steps, Obe shared that he had seen a snake the last time he took visitors to this temple and that when you see a snake it is a sign of good luck. Though he usually doesn’t see one he told us to be on the lookout. Lo and behold, we had an auspicious sighting! As we walked ahead of Obe, Stefan and Monique, we encountered a snake slithering on the side of the concrete path. He just slithered beside us for quite a way before crossing right in front of us and then climbing up the brush on the other side of the road. This snake was hard to miss. About 5 feet long, he (or she) was a beauty with a dark line covering both eyes, making them appear slit-like, a reticulated pattern on most of its body, a sold black tail and a bright yellow stripe down its back. (We couldn’t resist including a pic of this beauty, along with select shots from the Temple in the Sky, in our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.) We were mesmerized and were so glad to have this good omen. Our only frustration was identifying the snake. We Googled every possible search term and combination of search terms we could think of a came up empty handed until one search turned up a Facebook group called “Snakes of Chiang Mai and Northern Thailand.” After getting accepted into the group, Jill posted a few pictures and a video we took of the snake and, in less than 5 minutes, someone had identified it as a non-venomous Helfenberger’s Cave Racer. Who knew that such a FB group existed!!! We delighted in the fact that the group’s members seemed to be as fascinated with this snake as we were as our post garnered more reactions than most other group posts in a short period of time. None of our sailing posts ever got that much attention. Guess we had to have a snake encounter to go viral.
Following our day at the Temple in the Sky we returned back to Lampang just in time for dinner and to visit the Saturday/Sunday Night Market. The market was great fun. Unlike the markets we visited in Chiang Mai, this market was strictly local. The roads were closed to traffic and filled with stalls and the stores and cafes along the street stayed open late. It was like one big block party and we really enjoyed the people watching and seeing the kinds of things you sell when you are not trying to cater to tourist. Many more items that simply meet every day needs. It was definitely a highlight of our visit back to Lampang.
Between our separate trips with Obe and the tours we did with Stefan and Monique, we spent almost 5 full days together. He began to feel like family so perhaps it was only appropriate that, at the end of our last day in Lampang together, he took us to his family home on the outskirts of town. It was a beautiful home with simple but elegant lines in an idyllic garden-like setting. While there we met Obe’s lovely mother, father and sister. As we sat down to tea with them we learned that when they bought the land the house is built on it was mostly barren. A labor of love, his father immediately began planting the trees, bushes and flowers and now it looks like the foliage was always there. It’s a beautiful and tranquil oasis.
Though we didn’t do everything with Obe, his “legacy” lived on. We asked Obe what his favorite hike near Chiang Mai was and without hesitation he recommended the Huay Tuang Tao – Dtaat Mook trail. It was a beautiful hike, about 6 miles in length, up a mountain along a stream until you reached a waterfall. (We included a pic of the waterfall in our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.) Along there way there were a few stunning views of the reservoir below. Fortunately, we read the AllTrails reviews before embarking on the hike. Several of the reviewers mentioned that the trail was not well marked or maintained in parts and that you should download the map so you could track your progress with GPS along the way. Another reviewer recommended long pants due to the overgrowth on the trails. We followed both recommendations and were very glad we did. The trail was indeed unmaintained and difficult to follow, particularly at the beginning. In fact, we ended up off the trail for a bit and had to cross over some pretty rocky terrain to get back on the right path. That also meant walking through some brush with would have torn up our legs if we hadn’t been wearing long pants.
Obe also recommended that we hike the Monk’s trail. That is the trail we mentioned earlier that leads to Wat Pha Lot. Because we are certifiable — or maybe we just like to walk (you decide) — we walked the 2.5 miles from our condo through Chiang Mai University and to the trailhead. Most of the walk was easy but the trailhead begins part way up the mountain so the last 1/3 is uphill all the way. Once to get to the trailhead you enter the forest and hike along a well maintained, though often rough and rocky, trail through lush woods next to a stream until you reach the temple. It’s really a beautiful walk with just the right level of difficulty to make you feel like you got some exercise but not feel so exhausted that you can’t enjoy the mystical surroundings of the temple in the jungle once you arrive. (Though sitting on the large rocks near the waterfall would be a great place to recover.) We enjoyed the Monk’s trail hike so much that, as we mentioned, we brought Stefan and Monique there when they visited. We did not, however, make them walk from the condo. Instead, we took a cab from the condo to the trailhead and walked up the Monk’s trail at about 4:15 PM. We reached the top of the trail at about 5 PM where Obe was waiting for us to give Stefan and Monique their tour of Wat Pha Lot before driving us up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep so they could enjoy the nighttime splendor of that temple along with its magnificent view.
Finally, in the recommended by Obe but done without him category, was a visit to the Tunnel Temple. We had asked Obe which temple in Chiang Mai was his favorite and he told us the “Tunnel Temple” (formally known as Wat Umong) so we had to visit. This is an old temple that also dates back to the 13th century. Rather than a traditional temple, Wat Umong is a temple in a series of tunnels dug out of man made mounds. The tunnels are lined with brick walls and there are several different nooks that contain shrines with images of Buddha. The temple was actually abandoned during the 15th century and not re-opened again until 1948 when it was restored. As you walk along the tree lined path to the temple you pass by a series of signs with Buddhist proverbs printed on them in Thai and English. That, and the sound of chanting that reverberates around the grounds, gives the area a strong spiritual feel and the pond next to the temple filled with catfish, ducks and turtles adds serenity. This was another location that we enjoyed so much that we went a second time when Stefan and Monique were visiting. (We included a pics of the Tunnel Temple in our Chiang Mai residency Instagram post.) During our second visit with Monique and Stefan we got an added bonus. They spotted bats clinging together in a huge pile hanging from the ceiling. With a relatively low ceiling height we were able to get a great look at the bats, enhanced even further by our iPhone cameras. (Sorry, we didn’t post pics of the bats but we have copious images so just ask if you are interested!)
But, as we mentioned at the outset, aside from all the exploring, we found a lot of joy in just becoming locals in Chiang Mai for 5 weeks. We had our favorite restaurants (Uchi Japanese Gastro Pub, Anchan Thai Cuisine, Accha Indian Restuarant and Why Not? Italian Restaurant) as well as our favorite spots for our morning Americano and Oat Milk Latte (Nine One and, we are embarrassed to admit, a local Starbucks). We got to know them and they got to know us. There is nothing like a genuine warm greeting that comes from recognition to make you feel special. And we had a surprise visit from some friends of ours from our rally. Their boat is in Malaysia and they traveled to Chiang Mai as part of their tour through Thailand. We got together for dinner one night and attended a Lady Boy Cabaret Show with them. (You will have to Goggle that one but your imagination is probably correct. The picture we included in Chiang Mai residency Instagram post provides a clue!) Finally, we also loved learning what we would call local Thai trivia — things that are hard to pick up unless to spend sometime in a place and mix with locals. Here are some of our favorite factoids about Thailand:
- Bowing protocol. It is customary in Thailand to bow when saying hello or thank you but there is protocol involved. The younger person must bow first. Only then should the older person bow. If the older person bows first the younger person considers it a sign of bad luck. We learned that one the hard way after we said thank you (kob koon ka) and bowed to the woman who manages our condo, Emily, before she bowed to us. She gently, but very decisively, corrected us.
- Smoking rules. Though there are a lot of smokers in Thailand, Thailand has strict laws around where you can smoke and cities have their own set of sometimes stricter rules. For instance, in Chiang Mai, smoking is not allowed in most condos, even on balconies, or in any commons areas. Instead there are dedicated smoking areas well outside of the condo building. We learned this because we smelled cigarette smoke in the spare bedroom of our condo right before Stefan and Monique’s visit. We knew smoking was not permitted in the condo and we were concerned that the Emily might think we were smoking in the unit so we contacted her to let her know about the situation. She immediately came up to verify the smell of smoke and confirmed that smoking is not permitted anywhere in the building including the outside balconies. She then went on a mission to find the perpetrator(s) and, after finding them and “educating them on the rules” we had no further incidents.
- Thais living in cities don’t cook. This is clearly a generalization but it is largely true. We noticed when we were looking for a condo on AirBnB that the kitchens were all very small. The kitchen in the condo we rented had a microwave and 2 stove top burners but no oven and the counter space was very limited. It would be very hard to do anything in the “kitchen” other than make a simple breakfast or reheat food. In talking with Emily and Obe we learned that the kitchens are small because Thais in the city don’t cook. Street food is so abundant, varied and inexpensive that most Thais buy a freshly prepared premade dish in a plastic bag for about 25 Baht (that’s $0.74 USD) from a street vendor on their way home from work.
- The Thai people are the nicest, most considerate, people on the planet until they get in a car or on a scooter. We are not kidding. The Thai people we have met have been wonderful: warm, friendly, accepting, inclusive, gracious and generous. We can not say enough about the hospitality extended to us during our stay. Ironically, all bets are off when they get in a car or on a scooter. They drive fast, weave in and out of traffic and there is absolutely no such thing as yielding to pedestrians. (Pedestrians walk at their own risk.). We thought that maybe it was just our imagination but then we asked Obe one night what his biggest culture shock was when he moved to the USA. (He lived there for 6 years, before and during graduate school). He said his biggest culture shock was how drivers respected pedestrians and yielded to them so they could crosss the street. Coming from his culture he said it made him feel so honored that a car would stop for him. We had such a good laugh when we shared that our biggest culture shock in Thailand was like his is America but in the reverse.
- People do not like the current King. In Thailand it is against the law to speak ill of the king even though it is a democracy and the king is a figurehead only. As a result no one said much about the king when we asked what they thought but it was what they didn’t say that was telling. No one had anything nice to say — this is in big contrast to how effusive Thai people are when they speak about the current king’s now deceased father — so we Googled it and did learn that Thais do not care for the current king because of his lack of engagement with the people, his extravagant lifestyle and scandals around his marital life. This really hit home for us when the king and queen came to visit Chiang Mai, a very rare occurrence. We had heard about the visit from someone we met in a temple. The king and queen were supposed to drive down one of the big avenues in the Old City at 5 PM on January 5. With the Old City being such an easy walk for us we decided to join in the festivities. The only problem was that there were none. The streets were lined with chairs but practically no one, other than tourists, showed up. We dutifully took seats in the third row of seats while the security detail recruited locals to fill the front two rows. We were given flags and instructions on how to wave them when the king and queen drove by. It was actually very said how apathetic the Thai people felt towards their king. Of course, as the king and queen drove by in the middle of their motorcade we got to experience, first-hand, why they felt that way. There was no slow drive along the street with royals waving to the crowds. Nope. The car with the King and Queen sped by and it looked like they were staring straight ahead. We nonetheless did our parts with the requisite flag waving before dispersing after this blink and you could miss it experience. There is a funny related story though. In advance of the king’s visit, city officials wanted top make a good impression so they repainted the alternating white strips on the curbs of the city streets. The problem is that they didn’t put up any signs. If we hadn’t seen them doing the painting we would never have known that the curb was freshly painted. Many people didn’t have that advantage and steps on the fresh wet paint leaving a trail of white footprints throughout the Old City.
- Interesting graduation traditions. While we were in Chiang Mai there were graduations at Chiang Mai University. We were struck by what vendors were selling for the graduates. Vendors were set up along the sidewalk for literally blocks near the university. They were selling bouquets for the graduates but these were not typical bouquets. These were bouquets of Thai local currency in variation denominations — 20s, 50s, 100s and 1000s. All inserted into a cellophane sleeve on a stick. Sometimes the cash was interspersed with real or fake flowers but these were really beside the point. The point was the cash. While it is certainly common in the USA for graduates to receive cash it is usually cash discreetly placed in an envelope — not presented for display.
As we type and proofread this entry we are en route to Bangkok. We will probably put the final flourish on our entry right after we arrive in Bangkok. (That turned out to be a true statement!) We will be there 4 nights and 3 days. From there we travel to Singapore and then onto Cambodia and Vietnam. We will publish a short blog entry after our brief tour of Bangkok as we say our final farewell to Thailand after a truly wonderful 2 month visit. Though we loved our roving tour of Thailand before reaching Chiang Mai, and we are confident we will enjoy our brief stay in Bangkok, Chiang Mai has been very special to us. We are already thinking about returning for another extended say sometime after we complete our circumnavigation. We loved our time here and sharing it with Stefan and Monique. We hope that someday we have an opportunity to share this special place with our other children and grandchildren as well. With such full hearts we say Swasdi Ka/Krab for now!
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